Cigar Information
How To Set up Your Humidor
When most people get their new humidor home, they are anxious to fill it up with their collection of smokes. If you do this without first re-humidifying the wood, you may ruin your cigars. Why? The wood has not had a chance to reach it's equilibrium. So when you put your cigars in, the wood will absorb their moisture and you will be left with dry, useless cigars. Not exactly the reason you bought a humidor, To solve this problem, all humidors should be re-humidified before their first use.
1) Re-humidifying your humidor is easy, just follow these simple steps:
Place a shallow container filled with distilled water in the humidor
Place calibrated hygrometer inside humidor
Charge your humidification device
2) If you're impatient you can try this short cut
Wet a towel (paper or cloth) with distilled water and dampen all of the cedar inside your humidor.
Place calibrated hygrometer inside humidor
Charge your humidification device
Place humidification device inside humidor
You have to check the relative humidity every day. Depending on a number of factors, this can take a few days to a few weeks. When you get in the 70% range, it is safe to store your smokes inside. As long as you constantly recharge your humidification device, you will never have to wait to store your cigars again.
I always suggest waiting at least 7-10 days, no matter what the hygrometer says before putting cigars in a new humidor. Humidors should be in the 65-75% humidity range. A hygrometer is a device used to measure the amount of humidity that is in your humidor.
Calibrating Your Hygrometer
Here are a couple of ways to calibrate your hygrometer:
1) The Towel Test:
1) The Towel Test:
Dampen a towel (not dripping wet, but good and damp), then wrap the hygrometer in the towel for 30 to 45 minutes. Then unwrap it and read the humidity (quickly). If your hygrometer is perfectly calibrated (few are) it will be reading exactly 100% humidity. Most likely, it will be reading somewhere between 80 and 90%. At this point, whatever the hygrometer reads, you can either set the needle to exactly 75% immediately after the test, or if you're a little lazier, make a mental note of how far over or under the actual humidity is from the reading from your hygrometer.
2) Want to get a little more technical? Try the Salt Test:
2) Want to get a little more technical? Try the Salt Test:
Luckily, as nature would have it, when salt and water are in a saturated solution at equilibrium, the resultant humidity is 75%. This gives a fantastic reference point to calibrate our hygrometer. There is an easy way to determine if your hygrometer is accurate. Here's the procedure you should use: you need a ziploc bag, a screw-on beer bottle cap (or other small container) a small amount of salt (regular table salt), and water.
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Place the salt in the bottle cap (or other small container).
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Dampen the salt with water. Do not put so much in that the salt gets "sloppy". You want a damp pile of salt in the bottle cap.
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Place both the hygrometer and the bottle cap full of damp salt in the ziploc bag and seal it well. (It is important not to let air in or out while the test is going on.)
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Keep it like this for over 8 hours.
After 8 hours in the damp salt environment, the actual humidity inside the bag will be 75%. Compare it to your hygrometer, your hygrometer should also read 75%. If not, you will then know exactly how far off your hygrometer is. If it's off, note the amount and direction that it actually reads, and be sure to add or subtract that amount when reading the hygrometer. If the hygrometer has a control to adjust it (either the needle or the display), you can set the hygrometer to 75% immediately after the test.
You should salt test your hygrometer every 6 months or so to be sure of the accuracy.
You should salt test your hygrometer every 6 months or so to be sure of the accuracy.
BUTANE LIGHTER REFILLING INSTRUCTIONS:
CAUTION: Do not refill close to an open flame!
Extinguish the flame of your butane lighter. Extinguish the flame!!
No smoking!! Keep away from open flame!! Keep away from face!! Read and follow all instruction on refill can or lighter!
Turn the flame height adjuster on the bottom of the butane lighter to the lowest setting by turning the adjuster clockwise with a small screwdriver.
Take air out of the fuel tank by pressing the refill inlet valve with a small screwdriver until no hissing sound is heard. Hold butane lighter away from face when taking air out. Air in the fuel tank deters butane gas from being injected into the tank and elicits the malfunction of the butane lighter. If butane gas comes out of the inlet valve when the inlet valve is pressed, stop bleeding the fuel tank immediately. In this case, the fuel tank is filled with butane gas.
Refill butane lighter in an upside down position as shown above.
After shaking the butane gas refill can, press the stem of the refill can directly onto the refill inlet valve on the bottom of the butane lighter and let butane gas go into the lighter for about 10 seconds.
Do not ignite butane lighter for about 2 - 5 minutes until the butane gas in the gas tank reaches room temperature.
Open the flame height adjuster by a quarter turn at a time by turning counter-clockwise until the flame height reaches the desired level. Hold butane lighter away from face when igniting. If the flame height adjuster is turned up too high, the lighter will not ignite and you will hear a hissing sound. If this happens, please lower the adjuster by turning clockwise.
If the fuel tank is empty, refill rather than adjusting flame height.
No smoking!! Keep away from open flame!! Keep away from face!! Read and follow all instruction on refill can or lighter!
Turn the flame height adjuster on the bottom of the butane lighter to the lowest setting by turning the adjuster clockwise with a small screwdriver.
Take air out of the fuel tank by pressing the refill inlet valve with a small screwdriver until no hissing sound is heard. Hold butane lighter away from face when taking air out. Air in the fuel tank deters butane gas from being injected into the tank and elicits the malfunction of the butane lighter. If butane gas comes out of the inlet valve when the inlet valve is pressed, stop bleeding the fuel tank immediately. In this case, the fuel tank is filled with butane gas.
Refill butane lighter in an upside down position as shown above.
After shaking the butane gas refill can, press the stem of the refill can directly onto the refill inlet valve on the bottom of the butane lighter and let butane gas go into the lighter for about 10 seconds.
Do not ignite butane lighter for about 2 - 5 minutes until the butane gas in the gas tank reaches room temperature.
Open the flame height adjuster by a quarter turn at a time by turning counter-clockwise until the flame height reaches the desired level. Hold butane lighter away from face when igniting. If the flame height adjuster is turned up too high, the lighter will not ignite and you will hear a hissing sound. If this happens, please lower the adjuster by turning clockwise.
If the fuel tank is empty, refill rather than adjusting flame height.
Butane is flamable, please use caution and common sense while handling.
Always read and follow instructions on refill can or lighter!
Always read and follow instructions on refill can or lighter!
Cigar Guide
Many things in the world are called “handmade,” but few actually embody the terms as artfully and luxuriously as a premium cigar. From the tobacco seedling’s first days in the nursery- where workers carefully tend to each new sprout- to the intricate process of rolling the completed cigar, ski8lled hands guide every stage of its evolution. Every step of making the cigar from the painstaking field work of planting new seeds, picking , and harvesting, to curing in barns, sorting, rolling and packing- it’s all done to some of the most exacting standards of any artisanal pursuit. At every stage from sprout care to quality- inspecting the final product, each tobacco leaf is examined to make sure it lives up to rigorous quality standards.
Anatomy of a Cigar
Wrappers- The wrapper (outer covering) can contribute from 60% to 80% or more to a cigar’s overall flavor.
Wrappers grown in the shade will be smoother, have smaller veins and should be slightly oily.
Those grown in the sun will be darker. Have larger veins and should be velvety to the touch. They will tend to have a full flavor and hint of sweetness as the increased sun exposure increases sugars on the leaf.
Criollo San Andres: Medium to full body, grown in Mexico’s San Andres Valley
San Andres Morron: Medium-bodied, dark and flavorful version of the above. Rich and slightly sweet.
Ecuadorian Connecticut Shade: Slightly more flavorful and richer in color than Connecticut Shade.
Ecuadorian Sumatra: Grown from Sumatran seed. Mild flavor, hint of sweetness.
Conneticut Shade: Mild to medium flavor, silky quality, lightly golden to red.
Nicaraguan: Cuban-seed leaf grown in Nicaragua since the 1990’s.
Indonesian TBN: An aromatic and rich wrapper. Light colored.
Connecticut Broadleaf: Thick, oily and veiny wrapper leaf. Full of flavors and aromas.
Cameroon: Fragile, thin leaf. Light flavor, sweet aroma.
Ecuadorian Cubano: A Cuban-seed wrapper grown in Ecuador in shades from light to dark. Full-bodied, rich.
Binders
Binders are the strong, flexible tobacco leaves holding the cigar together. Found between the wrapper and the filler, the binder holds the form of the cigar true to its shape. The thicker tops of the tobacco plant are used as a binder.
Fillers
The filler is the center, which comprises the majority of the cigar. These leaves often come from different fields, reigons and countries. Cigar filler is primarily from the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Dominican has a medium body with sweet undertones; Honduran is rich with coffee tones: Nicaraguan is spicy/earth, and Mexican filler tends to be strong, sweet and spicy.
Color and Classification
Candela: From a greenish-blonde to a light green. Harvested before the plant fully matures. Mild-flavored; also known as “Double Claro,” “Jade” and “American Market Selection” (AMS).
Claro: Blonde or tawny color. Cut before full maturity. Also known as “Natural.”
Colorado Claro: Light-brown color.
Colorado Maduro: A full-brown color.
Maduro: Dark brown with occasional red tints taken from the top of the plant. Strong flavor.
Oscuro: Virtually black. Left in the field the longest. Exposed to maximum sunlight. Matured longer than other tobaccos.
A Taste of Where It’s Grown
Like fine wine, country of origin directly impacts the flavor and aroma of a cigar. Soil conditions, temperature, humidity, and sunlight all create distinct characteristics in the tobacco.
Dominican Republic-Producer of top quality tobacco, especially in the Cibao River Valley area near Santiago
Connecticut Valley- Source of some of the world’s finest pale wrapper leaves highly regarded by cigar makers and connoisseurs. Connecticut Broad Leaf is grown in the sun for a wrapper that’s coarser, darker, and produces a sweeter taste.
Indonesia - Indonesia wrapper tobacco is dark, tasty, and fragile in nature. Recently, special strains of Java married with Connecticut tobacco are producing a rich, flavorful, fine-burning wrapper and binder tobacco. Grown under shade, commonly referred to as TBN.
Mexico - The San Andreas Valley is famous for a sun-grown Mexican Sumatra used for wrappers. Dark tobacco used for long fillers and binders give the cigar a distinctive, sweet, peppery, light texture. Mexican wrapper leaves are often used for Maduro wrappers.
Nicaragua - Nicaragua’s bold, full-flavored tobacco, attributed to the region’s optimal comate and soil, is said to rival the best from Cuba. There are three main tobacco-growing regions: Esteli produces full flavored tobacco
Cameroon - This West African country is known for a high-quality neutral wrapper leaf that’s ideal for full-flavored filler blends. Because of bad weather and political climate, availability has suffered, but the leaf remains a favorite among cigar connoisseurs.
Ecuador - A producer of both filler and wrapper tobacco as well as shade and sun grown. Here, tobacco grown using Connecticut and Sumatra seeds tends to be milder in favor.
Honduras - Honduras produces quality Cuban seed and Connecticut seed tobaccos, both full-bodied, with strong, spicy flavors. Connecticut seed variety is shade-grown in Honduras and similar to Connecticut grown shade leaf tobacco.
Brazil - Tobacco from Brazil tends to be dark, rich and smooth with a slightly sweet flavor. Brazilian tobacco leaves become deeper brown after fermentation.
Cuba - Cuban tobacco is known as some of the finest in the world. The primary growing region is the legendary Vuelta Abajo area in the western part of the country. Ever since the U.S. embargo in 1963, Cuban-grown tobaccos are not used in cigars sold in the United States.
Cigar Manufacturing
The journey of a handmade cigar is a long one. From seed to its final packing, a single stick may pass through as many as 200 pairs of hands during the artful process of creating this true handmade luxury.
Growth and Harvest - Growing tobacco requires exceptional artistry and experience. Plants are nurtured in nurseries and the seedlings are transported to fields. When it’s time to harvest, leaves are picked from the bottom to the top. Valdo, the bottom leaf, has the mildest taste. Seco, in the middle, has a medium flavor. Ligero, at the top, is exposed to the most sun and has the strongest flavor.
Curing and Fermentation - Specially chosen leaves are bundled according to size and hung to dry in curing barns for six to eight weeks. During curing, the tobacco must ferment to remove and ammonia and other natural chemical components. Improperly fermented tobacco causes harshness or bitterness and will not stay lit. After this preparation, the master blender pre-blends the filler by selecting a special combination of tobacco leaves. Expert hands make the difference in a fine cigar. The “buncher” forms the filler into a cylinder, which is rolled into a binder leaf and placed in a mold to coax it into a cigar shape. The ‘”roller” then skillfully applies the outer wrapper tobacco leaf.
Sorting and Aging - After rolling, cigars are placed in the “marrying room” for a minimum of three weeks. This is a temperature and humidity-controlled cedar room that gives the selected tobaccos time to meld their tastes and allow the moisture to equilibrate.
Size and Shape
All cigars can be divided into two categories: parejos, or straight-sided cigars, and figuardos, cigars with irregular shapes.
Parejos (Straight Sided)
Toro 6”x 52-54
Robusto 4 ½”-5” x 52-54
Churchill 7” x 50-54
Corona Grande 5 5/8” x 50
Lonsdale 6 5/8 x 42-44
Corona 5 1/2”-6” x 44
Figurados
Petite Belicoso 4”-4 ½” x 52-54
Belicoso 6” x 52-54
Torpedo/Pyramid 6”-6 3/8” x 50-52
Diademas 9 1/8” x 54
Cigar smokers sometimes resort to shorthand when referring to the size and shape of cigars. The simple phrase, “I’ll have a Monte#2” encapsulates size, shape and brand in a word and a number.
Ring gauge is the measurement of the cigar’s diameter based on 1/64” increments.
Stages of Tobacco Leaf Growth
First Priming - Harvested 45-50days after sowing. Taken from the very base of the plant. Leaves tend to be very light and sweet, and burn evenly.
Second Priming - Harvested 50-52 days after sowing. Mild, generally used for filler.
Third Priming - Harvested 58-62 days after sowing. Central parts of the plant, which are lighter in tone.
Fourth Priming - Harvested 68-72 days after sowing. Often used for stronger-flavored wrappers.
Fifth Priming - Harvested 73-75 days after sowing. Strong tobacco from the center.
Sixth Priming - Harvested 75-80 days after sowing. Responsible for the darkest, most powerful tobacco. Leaves are small and often a limited quantity.
Time to Enjoy
Whether enjoying a fine cigar with friends or savoring a smoke in quiet contemplation, the love of a good cigar always endures.
Drinks and Cigars - Good pairings give you an experience beyond the sum of its parts. A single barrel bourbon or single malt scotch will complement even strong cigars. Mild and medium-bodied cigars go well with VSOP cognacs. The sweetness and alcohol work nicely with a full-bodied cigar. If you prefer wine over spirits, try a Cabernet. Port has long been recognized as an ideal partner for great cigars. Coffee also pairs well with a cigar.
Cigar Cutters - Part of the cigar’s cap must be removed before lighting so the smoke can flow evenly. When cutting, make sure to take the slimmest possible bit off the top that still allows you to take a comfortable draw. Cigar scissors and guillotines both provide a straight cut and are two popular ways to start your cigar off right. A straight cut is the best way to remove the cap from torpedo, beliscos and perfecto format cigars. Punch cutters take a different approach and pierce the cap creating a hole through the binder and into the wrapper, which creates a concentrated stream of smoke. The bullet can make a hole anywhere from a .25 caliber to 12mm in diameter. The V-cut (otherwise known as Cat’s Eye) was popular until the 1970’s, when it fell out of favor and is now popular again. Above all,use a sharp blade; a dull one can damage the wrapper and cause it to unravel. Biting off the end has the potential to damage the cigar and draw.
Light it Up - When it comes time to light your cigar, start off by toasting (Charring) the foot of your cigar. This will ensure an even burn. Next, angle the toasted end of your cigar just above the flame as you gently draw air, rotating the cigar over the flame to make sure all sides are evenly lit. Turn the cigar around and blow gently into the new ash. If the entire foot of the cigar blazes with an even orange glow, your lighting process is complete. Enjoy.
Choosing Your Cigar
Educate Yourself- Part of the fun of smoking cigars is learning about the various countries of manufacture, tobacco types, and cigar making techniques. Of course, the real fun comes when you try the cigars and discover the brands and characteristics that most appeal to you. Subjective ratings can be helpful, but you may wish to concentrate on reviews that mention flavors, strength, and characteristics that you know you will like. And keep in mind that the bigger diameter a cigar, the cooler it will smoke.
What’s Your Taste Profile- Friends and tobacconists can provide you with recommendations and are great sources for helpful information. In addition to asking them what they smoke, describe the flavors you like so they can suggest cigars or similar character that fit your particular taste preference.
Glossary
Binder(Capote): The leaf between filler and wrapper that binds the whole stick together; hence the name. Binder leaf is chosen for its combination of burning qualities, flavor and aroma. As the oils from the tobacco leaves blend over time. The cigar assumes its blend-specific flavor.
Blend: Tobaccos from the cigar’s wrapper, binder and filler are what make up its blend. As the oil from the tobacco leaves blend over time. The cigar assumes its blend-specific flavor.
Bloom: A naturally occurring gray or white “Fuzz” that sometimes appears on the wrappers of well-aged cigars and can be removed with a finger or soft cloth. Not mold. Also known as plume.
Body: Also known as the strength of the cigar. The term is not to be confused with “Flavor” although people often use the terms interchangeably. It is very possible to have a light bodied cigar with a heady burst of flavor, and vice versa. A “full-bodied” cigar is one with a complex blend that affects the palate more strongly.
Boite nature: A plain cedar box without any markings, holograms. Edging paper, or lithographs.
Box-Pressed: Cigars that, by virtue of being placed into a tight-fitting box, have been pressed into a squarish shape.
Bunch: Filler and binder tobacco rolled together, before the application of the wrapper.
Bundle: Literally a bundle of 20 to 50 cigars, wrapped in ribbon and sold without a box.
Cameroon: A fragile and thin wrapper leaf produced in the Bertoua region of the West African country of the Cameroon. Imparts a light flavor and sweet aroma.
Cap: A small tab of tobacco leaf affixed to the head of the cigar with vegetable glue to close the head. The cap is always clipped off before smoking.
Capa: A Spanish term for “wrapper.”
Casa de tobacco: The structure that hosts the initial stages of tobacco-leaf drying, with the leaves strung up on poles hung from the rafters.
Chaveta: Casa de tobacco: The structure that hosts the initial stages of tobacco-leaf drying, with the leaves strung up on poles hung from the rafters.
Chaveta: The crescent-shaped cutter used to slice tobacco leaves in preparation for rolling into a cigar.
Churchill: Named for the iconic British prime minister, a 7” double corona with a 47 to 54 ring gauge.
Cigarillo: Spanish for “little cigar.” Short, narrow, and filled with shredded tobacco
Connecticut Broadleaf: This thick, oily and veiny wrapper leaf. Also grown in Connecticut Valley, USA, is full of flavors and aromas.
Connecticut Shade: With a mild to medium flavor, a silky quality, and a hue that gradates from slightly golden to red, this tobacco grown in Connecticut Valley (also referred to as “Tobacco Valley”) is some of the most sought-after and prized in the world.
Criollo San Andres: A flavorful leaf that yields cigars of medium to full body, grown in Mexico’s lush San Andres Valley.
Cujes: The pole used to string tobacco for drying from the rafters of the casa de Tabaco.
Cutter: The blade used to remove the cigar’s cap. Comes in scissors, single-or double bladed guillotine, punch, bullet, or V.
Dermitasse: A 4” cigar with a 30 ring gauge, also known as a “lady finger.”
Draw: Airflow through a lit cigar. It can be too effortless (hot) or too tight (plugged).
Ecuadorian Connecticut Shade: Connecticut- seed wrapper grown in Ecuador in a variety of shades ranging from more flavorful and richer in color that Connecticut shade.
Ecuadorian Cubano: A Cuban-seed wrapper grown in Ecuador in a variety of shades ranging from light to dark. Fuller-bodied and rich, it is sometimes referred to as Corojo 98. Ecuadorian Sumatra Wrapper leaf, grown from Sumatran seed and used Ecuador’s near-continuous cloud cover, yielding a mild flavor and a hint of sweetness.
Fabrica: Spanish term for a cigar-making factory.
Fabuloso: Traditional term for the largest cigar in a particular brand.
Filler (Tripa): The tobacco leaves, rolled into the center of the cigar, form the foundation of the blend.
Finca: Spanish term for a tobacco farm.
Finished head: A particular finish to rolling a cigar in which the cap and the body are formed from one piece of leaf.
Foot: The end of the cigar that one torches.
Frog Strip: A filler leaf after the central stem has been stripped away, so named because it supposedly looks like the underside of a frog.
Full cut: A guillotine cut.
Guayabera: The cigar makers’ distinctive four-pocket shirt, ideal for both touring the factory floor and meeting with important guests afterwards.
Hand: Approximately 20 tobacco leaves bunded together.
Handrolled: A cigar whose wrapper had been hand-rolled onto the binder and filler.
Head: The end of the cigar with the “cap” that one cuts. Often referred to as the “top” of a cigar.
Hencho a mano: Translates as “handmade.” Stamped on cigar boxes to indicate their handrolled, premium quality.
Honduran Connecticut Shade: Connecticut Shade tobacco grown in Honduras, providing ideal color and balance between strength and flavor.
Hygrometer: The device placed inside humidors to track the interior humidity.
Indonesian TBN: An aromatic and rich wrapper that is rather light colored (“TBN” stands for ‘tabaco awah naungan.,’ which translates as “Tobacco under sheet,” or shade-grown); the best of this leaf is grown in the eastern province of Java near Jember.
Ligero: The full-flavored top leaves of the tobacco plant, used in filler.
Long filler (Tripa Larga): Filler tobacco leaves that run the length of a cigar. Long filler, when lit, leaves behind a suitably long ash; because less surface of the leaf is exposed to flame, the resulting smoke is often cooler and milder than what you experience with short filler.
Maduro: The term for very dark tobacco.
Marrying: The term used to describe the phenomenon by which different tobaccos, when brought together mix their flavors and aroma; this process is the basis of blending distinctive cigars.
Nicaraguan: A Cuban-seed wrapper leaf grown in Nicaragua since the 1990’s, known among producers for its difficulty in producing; only a few leaves from the very top of the plant end up as wrappers.
Perfecto: A cigar that tapers at both ends, an iconic shape often 4 to 5” long.
Pig tail: Also known as “Curly Head” or “Fancy Tail,” the Pig Tail is a small twist of tobacco on the cap of cigar, formed by the roller twisting that last bit of leaf. Also known as Rat Tail.
Pilon: Large piles of tobacco leaves assembled for fermentation.
Plancha: A five-count bundle of wrapper leaves, also known as a “hand.”
Plume: A naturally occurring gray or white “fuzz” that sometimes appears on the wrappers of well-aged cigars. Can be removed with a finger or soft cloth. Not mold. Also known as bloom.
Puro: A cigar whose binder, filler, and wrapper come from the same country in which it’s rolled.
Quebrado: A tobacco leaf torn in the field.
Rat Tail: Also known as a “Curly Head” or “Fancy Tail,” the Rat Tail is a small twist of tobacco on the cap of a cigar, formed by the roller twisting that last bit of a leaf. Also known as Pig Tail.
Ring Gauge: The measurement of the diameter of a cigar, with 64 ring-gauge units per inch.
San Andres Morron: A medium-bodied leaf grown in the San Andres Valley of Mexico, considered thick and flavorful.
Seco: Medium-flavored filler leaves from the middle of the plant.
Select Connecticut Shade: The best of Connecticut Shade, grown in Connecticut’s “Tobacco Valley.”
Semillero: The nursery, often within a cigar-maker’s compound, where tobacco seeds are grown and spend their first days as sprouts.
70/70: The optimum environment fir a humidor; 70 percent relative humidity and 70 degrees Fahrenheit
Spill: A strip of wood (usually cedar produced from a wood sheet used in cigar boxes) used to light a cigar.
Sticks: A quasi-slang word for cigars- other variants include “stogie,” “gar,” and “rope.”
Stripping: The factory prcess of removing the stem from a tobacco leaf.
Strength: Also known as “the body” of the cigar, strength falls into three categories,: mild, medium, and full. A new smoker may take some time to determine which cigars; strength best fits his or her personal comfort zone.
Square-Pressed: Also known as box-pressed. Occurs when cigars are inserted tightly into a box xo as to press them into a perfectly square shape.
Tapado: A tobacco field overlaid with cheesecloth to create shade-grown tobacco.
La tablas: The wooden cutting board on which the cigar roller does his or her work.
Torcedo: In Spanish, “one who twists,” and a term used to indicate a roller of premium handmade cigars.
Tubos: Cigars that are packaged in individual tubes. These tubes are typically made of aluminum; however, they can also be made of wood or glass.
Vega: A tobacco plantation.
Veguero: One who grows and harvests tobacco.
Vitola: Spanish terminology for the shape and size of the cigar.
Vitolphile: One who collects cigar bands.
Vuelta Abajo: An area of Cuba renowned for its soil and tobacco-growing qualities.
Volado: The lighter-flavored lower leaves of sun-grown tobacco plants used in filler.
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